These are the choices for a S&W J-frame:
LG-305- A bit of rubber and I can get three fingers on it: $249.
LG-105- Polymer, looks the size of the standard grips on a 442: $179
LG-405- Standard size, rubber overmold: $259
"Defender" series, polymer: $97.19
The specs for the laser itself all seem to be the same, 5mW.
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8 comments:
I've used several different models, but for concealed carry there was no contest - the polymer models, with no 'grabby' rubber panels or coatings, were vastly superior for ease of drawing from a pocket or tight clothing (e.g. beneath a jacket). The rubber is much softer on the hands, particularly under heavy recoil, but it 'grips' one's clothing and snags during a fast draw - particularly if one's under stress and fumbling for the pistol.
I'll live with the added recoil 'sting' and go for ease of rapid withdrawal.
Forgot to add - I think the Defender series is OK if the gun is carried in the hand, ready to use; but it's an extra step to activate the laser in an emergency, which may be one step too many for comfort. I much prefer the simplicity of grab-and-bang.
Peter's comments regarding the two typical grip materials are important, and definitely bear on your choice of LaserGrips.
With the cost of them, you might want to shoot the gun with the two types, without lasers, to determine if you can live with the smaller, slicker, more concealable type. Grips that leave the backstrap exposed are hard on the hand, especially when you get older. I have heard stories of people, new to the light snubbies, dropping them after firing. If you don't have a lot of meat to your hand, that narrow frame can really bite. Which is why most people never practice shooting them.
If you can get away with using the overmolded type in your expected carry mode, that would be best.
The LG-405 looks like a typical overmolded concealment grip. Might be a tight fit in some pockets, especially jeans.
The LG-105 look like the Boot Grip type, with exposed backstrap. Can't really get any smaller.
The LG-305 gives you a three finger grip, and the least concealable. Not pocket friendly. Probably ok with a belt holster or shoulder rig.
For twenty plus years, I've swapped the overmolded type of grip to practice with, and used the boot grips for carry. Recently discovered that my accuracy now suffers a bit with the small grips. Group size on the 40 yrd tin can range seems about twice as big with them as with the overmolded ones. Makes hitting the little 8oz juice cans difficult. Sigh...
I recommend this model of speedloader for your J-frame:
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/127569/safariland-comp-1-revolver-speedloader-charter-arms-s-and-w-5-shot-38-special-polymer-black
clearance price is $7.75
I'm not finding speedloaders in Safariland's latest catalog. Hmm, I'd better stock up.
These are the most compact. I've never had one dump ammo in a pocket. You push it against the cylinder to release the ammo. No knob twisting needed. These are just a bit longer and wider than ammo in full-moon clips, but much more durable.
Midway also carries the speed strip carriers, both 5 and 6 rounds, for when you want a flat package of ammo:
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/610877/tuff-products-quickstrip-38-special-357-magnum-40-s-and-w-5-round-polymer-package-of-2-black
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/243389/bianchi-580-speed-strips-38-special-and-357-magnum-package-of-2-plastic-black
I normally just cut the tail off of these. the empty spot on the six strip gives you something to grip, if needed. Haven't seen the 5 shell type before.
I've done a few mods to my model 442, (and did the same to my Charter snubbies):
Trigger:
Radiused and polished the trigger face, edges, and tip. Made it much more comfortable. Mainly gives the impression that it's narrower (but it's not).
The tip would bite/pinch me, as it was sharp and too close to the guard. Now it's slightly shorter and has no edges.
Cylinder:
Beveled the rear circumference. 45degree, .035" wide. The original corner was so sharp that it would catch on everything, and was chewing up every holster it fit, plastic and leather. I left it bright, although it would be easy to cold blue it.
The front of the cylinder has beveling from the factory, about .030 wide, but they didn't bother to blend the meeting of the relief cuts and outer diameter. Leaves a point of sorts, which is mildly annoying. Still there.
And, I chamfered the charge holes, as the chamber and star edges were sharp enough to shave with, which slows down reloading noticeably.
Action:
Almost forgot, I did polish the internal parts of the action, to smooth the trigger feel. I did not alter the sear engagement surfaces, though. Basically, any surface that moved got a flat, polished finish, to sort of replicate a 10,000 cycle dry-fire lifetime. Might have been overkill on my part.
I went through this selection process last year. I chose the LG-405 for it's grip size and comfort and I LOVE it. I tried the others, but the 405 gave me the most secure grip and that's the important part--if you can't hold the pistol comfortably and securely, you can't shoot it well, especially under stress. And it draws just fine from anyplace that I carry it--no worries there. I recommend the 405 without reservation.
And as to speedloaders, the Safariland Comp 1 is what I use, but I'll also carry Bianchi six-round speed strips and just use the first five cartridge slots, leaving the bottom one empty and using it as an extension of the gripping point. It's very fast and secure too, probably a bit better than the speedloader when under stress.
Mas Ayoob has a couple of great videos about revolver reloads:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXUwI_d8JlA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pMAXlT3ZLzs
Peter, if my hand is on the grip, how much rubber is going to show on the -405 grip?
Will, I don't have the capability to do that, other than taking it to a gunsmith.
I listed the work I did on mine to give you a quick heads up on what might be needed on yours. Bear in mind, I bought mine new over 20 years ago, when they first came out. I looked at the photo on the Smith site, but couldn't really tell the fine details. Then again, who knows how old the photo is.
You would be surprised at how little in the way of tools were used.
As far as the LG-405, it appears to be a two finger grip. On my similar type grip, my little finger curls under the bottom, even thought it has a bit of material covering the bottom of the frame. Should add at least a 1/4" more to the trigger reach, over the exposed frame boot grip types.
Hmm, just compared my two sets of grips, and even though the rear profile is totally different, and even so the finger groove area, the gun still points exactly the same when I throw it up. Still need to cock my wrist down to align the sights.
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