I let a local Smith collector coonfinger the Model 66 that I bought several weeks back. He didn't much care for the fact that some Cletus had, in the past, polished it. But he pronounced the lockup to be almost like new. His verdict: "You done good."
I've given up trying to master double-action for rapid fire with the Model 17. You need a fair amount of "oomf" to reliably touch off rimfire cartridges and you fight against that each time you cock the gun with the trigger. So I need to get off five shots in ten seconds, single-action.
I'm doing that by running the range commands in my head and then starting a stopwatch when the buzzer would sound. So far, I'm averaging eleven seconds for a string. I need to get that down to ten. Maybe I'll try dry-fire drills with my Model 19.
Needs More Rotation Notation
33 minutes ago
3 comments:
Snap caps are your friend
I had that problem with DA in a Smiff 317. I replaced the mainspring with one from a conventional J-frame, but left the hammer spring as it was. This reduced the DA pull to a manageable level, but still gave reliable ignition. You might want to try the combination (perhaps with Wolff springs instead of the factory ones).
Consider polishing all surfaces of internal parts that touch. I'm not even talking about doing a real trigger job, so you can leave the sear engagement surfaces alone. Just make everything else as smooth/flat as you can. Lots of videos on u-tube that can walk you through it.
How does the trigger face look? For me, no matter what the width, I want it smooth and rounded. Square corners suck, when it comes to multiple shots in D/A.
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